Settling In...well sortta

We are gradually settling into our space and pace. From school to work to practicing to downtime we have found a simplified and sensitive rhythm to our lives. It is just simply easier to listen ….to God, to our inner self and to each other. The combination of small town and location has deepened our days in a way I never could have imagined.

Andrew had a great week. Tuesday was In Service. So we celebrated with a huge rainbow popsicle, a challenging game of chess, a few more chapters of Harry Potter Book 4, and a great walk by the water. The rest of the week went well. Boys and Girls Club provided its usual comradely and school had a few fun highlights. Aside from his standard class work he learned to make butter during a study on Laura Ingles Wilder. Then Andrew switched gears to Helen Keller and analyzed a copy of the US Constitution in Braille. Mrs. Bidiman loves science, so they were often outside in the mud discovering different ecosystems. I heard lots of stories about stinkbugs.

Steve is up bright and early and out the door by 7:20. He spends his days knee deep in administrative paperwork. In addition to wading through the challenges that cross his desk, he makes time to keep in close contact with the students and teachers. He also finds time to train one of his secretaries. The grace in which he handles the school and community politics is inspiring. His thoughtfulness and experience truly allows the system to work more efficiently and brings people together to really help students in an authentic way. I’ll let Steve fill you in next week on his latest project in “Steve’s Keeping it Green.” It is very exciting venture for the community and has incredible potential for the students.

For me, while I am settling in…my greatest challenged, oddly enough to some of you, is with the meals. Those who know me, know that I am not a cook (or a baker). I am a self righteous vegan. I don’t eat wheat. I can stand chemicals in foods and my greatest culinary achievement is a well cut veggie platter. The kitchen is the place I like the least in the house. If I could be fed intravenously I would be perfectly content. Unfortunately, Steve and Andrew don’t like green protein shakes or oatmeal for dinner so there in lies my dilemma.

I play all sorts if mind games with my self to engage in the dinner process…being that there really no decent place to eat out I have no choice. I must cook. The Catholic in me offers it up as a great sacrifice, the Christian in me recites bible scripture, Tony Robbins enters the picture too as I try to make cooking meet 5 of my 7 human needs. I replay my marriage vows… words like “honor, commitment and unconditional” pop in my head. I also recall the woman in India who chant when cooking… turning meal preparation into a prayer.

So far the mind games have kept Steve and Andrew from staving. I have been quite creative and surprisingly prepared. I must admit…I do engage in a lot of begrudging mumbling as I trudge up the hill carrying groceries (none of which are organic!) It’s not that I don’t like carrying the groceries, I just hate the entire process. Perhaps, someday my prayer will come true….not to be fed intravenously, but that I will either learn to love cooking (while still staying a 120 lbs) or make enough money to hire Madonna’s chef!

One Pump Town

All those stories that people tell about living in a town

with only one traffic light…well I can beat’em.

Hoonah has no traffic lights, a hand full of stop signs and only one gas pump to it’s name.

This town runs along the water. It is 3 miles from where the ferry docks to the Post Office. A mile past the Post Office is the Airport and a mile past the ferry is Icy Straight Point. That’s it. The pavement stops there. All other roads are for logging trucks. Folks reside mainly in the 3 mile area and everyone has a car. Hoonahites drive all over the place. I see the same cars pass me 10-12 twelve times a day.

Grocery shopping takes place at the Hoonah Trading Company. It carries everything from Napa Valley Chardonnay marinated stuffed olives to canned Chow Mein Vegetables to Suave shampoo. The season is such that I can get all standard fruits and vegetables, although selection is slight. On average, I get to choose my bounty from five cucumbers, very under-ripe tomatoes, a few heads of broccoli, carrots and a couple kinds of apples. They are still getting bananas, asparagus, bell peppers and yesterday I saw mangos for sale. The store spans four small isles but truly has everything a person needs. I even found sprouted, 10 grain, non-flour bread…

To get your hands on that ‘Total” gas pump…. you walk into Hoonah Trading Canter and bark at the cashier that you need gas.

Collette’s Cupboard is the other place to get some basic canned and dry goods. Smaller than a 7-11, the owner of Collette’s fills her shelves with Costco items brought in every week on the Ferry. Somehow I have a feeling that reselling these items individually and at a 30% mark up is breaking some kind of law. But, I guess, due to the remote location… some laws are overlooked.

The Ace Hardware store is the only store in town that sells items for the home. This store sells rubber boots to small sewing kits, sheets to screwdrivers, fishing lures to photo frames. Andrew wanted me to add that they also sell toys. Giant stuffed animals are lined- up right next to the weed whackers.

I mentioned earlier that the town has three restaurants. One is “The Galley” that touts it’s halibut pizza (ummmm, no thanks), “The Lodge” pulls in the sports crowds with it’s big screen TV and “Grand Nina’s” that serves $7 dollar burgers, $ 4 coffees and soft serve ices cream for $3. Eating is home is definitely the best choice for our health and for our budget.

As far as libations go…Hoonah has one bar called “The Office.” Which I hear rages every night, all night long. Here is the liquor store…established in 1964 and from the looks of it…is still holding on to the original signage.

One grocery store, one house-ware store, one “7-11”, three places to eat, a bar and a liquor store…and one gas pump to fuel the coming of goings of 800 folks in this five mile Alaskan Village. For now I’ll stick to the walking, eating at home and keeping my “office” upstairs… although we will see what happens when the five feet of snow falls.

Celebrity at Icy Straight Point

When I first moved to town I noticed loads of tourists wandering up and down the main street. They would stop at the school and take pictures of the totem pole and the hand crafted canoes. They would whale watch and go for rides the kayaks. One day a couple asked where town was. I answered that this was it. We engaged in a delightful conversation. I discovered that Hoonah was a major stopping point for cruise ships.

All Summer long, huge boats dock just off shore at Icy Straight Point. The staff floats people into visit the refurbished cannery, museum, gift shop, invites them to take a ride on the longest zip-line in the world and take them on guided tours of Hoonah, “An Authentic Tlingit Village.” Oddly enough, because the Point is privately owned and designated for the cruise travelers, citizens of Hoonah aren’t allowed to visit, but for one weekend a season.

Thursday afternoon a Celebrity cruise ship docked and once more travelers were all over the village and enjoying the amenities of Icy Straight Point. One of the member of the school board works at the Point as a greeter for the Native Tlingit show. She invited Steve, as the Superintendant to see the last performance of the season. Thankfully, Steve got the OK to bring us along.

The show introduced five Tlingit natives wearing traditional clothing and telling a version of their creation story. The Tlingit people have occupied this area for over 12,000 years and believe that the placement of the stars, moon and sun are due to the craftiness of the great Raven. Side note: When I first moved here one of Andrew’s classmates, Nina, asked me if I was an eagle or a raven. I had no idea what she was talking about. I learned while watching the show, that all Tliglit people are either Ravens or Eagles. They follow their mother’s blood line and if they are a raven, they must marry an eagle and vice versa. I think Nina has a crush on Andrew and wanted to figure out if he was future marriage material :)

After the show we walked around the “Point”, visited the museum and the school store. As we meandered out on to the pier, we saw the most amazing sight: three or four killer whales arching through the water. The orcas were races and playing. Joined by the tourists from the cruise ships we stood transfixed at the vision of the true celebrity’s of the water. These creations are amazing. How lucky we were to witness there brief appearance.

We hoofed it back home, about a 1.8 mile walk, talking about all we had seen and learned; the colorful costumes of the dancers and story tellers, the interesting symbolism of the Tlingit culture, the cruise ship and the killer whales. It was a rich afternoon full of new experiences. Another great day in “Hoonah-lulu.”

Sunrise, Sunset

The last two days we have been blessed with glorious weather. The sun rose and set over our small village managing to hold back the envious clouds. Even with the sun beaming brightly, the mischievous cirrus kept us all guessing. Just how long would they allow the sun to remain king?…thankfully it was for more than a day. With rays shining strongly, folks took to the outdoors with eagerness; riding bikes, walking, eating outside, sitting on benches in front of Grandma Nina’s, young ones enjoying soft serve ice cream, elder ones sitting on their porches watching for whales. The sun brought a fresh view of the cannery from our bedroom window. All the Hoonah landscape looked renewed and energized from our hillside perch. With Steve still at his conference in Anchorage, it was up to Andrew and me “to make hay”. We went on long walk, explored the shore, played soccer at the park, picked our favorite boat docked at the pier, moseyed slowly home and ate dinner at our small table by the window to take full advantage of the closing scene of the day. As the sun moved closer to the mountainous horizon, bursting through the curtain of clouds, and the last boat of the day slowing moving toward harbor, its’ wake breaking the steel stillness of the water… a conversation took place that gives great insight as to the simple beauty of this place and the happiness it can bring. “Mom, people are so lucky to live here.” Andrew muttered, looking out the window. “Why?” I asked. “It is beautiful” he replied firmly, his blue eyes flashing at me, then returning his gaze to the window he added “This place is everything I’ve ever wanted.” “Really?” I said, trying not to sound too surprised. With great conviction he delivered his reasons, “Yeah, we have a house with stairs, we live by the ocean, and there are cool boats everywhere. We live in a small town where we can walk to school and I have great friends.” He paused then and thoughtfully shared, “ I hope we can always come back to Hoonah…even when I’m old.”

After school fun

Hoonah has drastically altered our after school schedule. No karate, no organized basketball, baseball, soccer or art class. While Andrew and I will start piano lessons in October, other than that we are free to use our after school time for fun and homework. Steve loves it. Andrew doesn’t seem to miss any of it…and I am setting my inner tempo to adagio…finally seeing the value of down time.
So what does Andrew do? He reads a lot…flying through chapter books in two days time. Legos are everywhere….he makes amazing creations with the Lego gifts he received for his birthday. To his great joy, his blocks arrived in the mail…so his Hot Wheel cars, which have been making rounds in the bath tub, can return to the his strategically engineered racing tracks and ramps. He rides his scooter everywhere.
One of the favorite after school activities that my little social butterfly loves to do is go to the Boy and Girls Club. Everyday when school is dismissed I walk him across the street and before I can blink he is in the door ready to play. He quickly scans the shoes at the front door to check for potential playmates. “Yes, Raymond is here!” Raymond is a mild mannered fifth grader who is always game to play chess, Chinese checkers, ping pong or pool with Drew. Andrew is in 7th heaven. All the kids get together and play hide and go seek or sit at the computer to play educational games.

Chris runs the facility and she is a saint. She helps the kids with their home work during “Power Hour”, she shows them how to make quilts, bead creations and art pieces. She provides a place for kids to use their energy in a positive manner. I love it that Andrew has this outlet share fun time with his classmates. The pouty look on his face when I tell him it’s time to go home shows me that he loves it too...

Home is Where Your Heart Is

Here is our house. Andrew is thrilled it is red….for me it resembles a barn. Steve is just happy there is a comfortable chair to relax in when he gets home. Despite it’s large appearance, it is very cozy and offers beautiful views of the water. Our home is owned by one of the town contractors, Al Hill. He is also running for Mayor. Al has made several upgrades to the house; laminate floors, new cabinets and a washer and a dryer. Can I hear an “Amen” for the dryer? It was installed two days after I arrived.

Our house has two livable floors. One floor contains the living room, dining room, and a half bath. Upstairs has two spacious bedrooms, a full bath, an office nook and a third room that contains some basic workout equipment.

The underneath of the house holds the oil container that heats our main living space. Thankfully it is semi-furnished. We have a T.V., DVD player, stereo and are hooked up to Dish Network.

We have a dining room table, beds, dressers and a desk. We enjoy the harbor views from three cushy rocking recliners, one has Steve’s name on it and another seems to have been claimed by Barneby (our cat). Housing is limited in Hoonah and I feel lucky to be in our home. We really have everything we need. Home is where your heart is….and with Steve and Andrew here how could I not feel at home.

"Go to the Principal's Office!"

Steve has had a busy week as Superintendent/Principal of the Hoonah School District; working from 7:30 to 5:30, rationing out peanut M&M’s to Andrew after school, late night board meetings, playing basketball (here is is with Police Officer Tony), flying Andrew’s toy plane and then catching his own plane to Anchorage for a four day conference. Thankfully, he is back this morning and won’t have to leave again until November. It is my hope that I can get him to write something for next week’s blog.
My request will be added to his long list of “to do’s”… so we’ll see how much rank I can pull :)