Friday, March 27, 2009

Coming to an End...


Andrew and my time in Hoonah is quickly coming to an end. In just fifteen days, we will finish our six-and-half months in Alaska and board our one-way flight to Oregon. It seems that all arrivals and departures are bitter sweet, and this departure is the same. It will be most difficult for me to leave Steve behind as he finishes out the school year. It is my great hope that the time will pass quickly. I will, once again, begin counting the days…this time until May 23rd when Steve flies home.

Relishing our time together was the theme for our Spring Vacation. We played games, watched movies, finished and started the next book in the Harry Potter series. We conducted a science experiment, had church on the beach, made going away cards for friends and sailed on a ferry to Juneau. Andrew had friends over, invited us to build lego creations and started warming up his pitching arm by throwing snowballs at a knot in a wooden board. It was a relaxing week and a treat for all of us to have this time to enjoy as a family.

Our Alaskan "Cruise"


A one time change in the ferry schedule gave us the opportunity to take a day “cruise” to Juneau.

The Alaska Marine Highway winter schedule brings a ferry to Hoonah twice a week. It docks here on Friday and doesn’t return to Hoonah until Tuesday. This schedule never provided us an opportunity to ride the ferry without committing to an expensive three or four night stay in Juneau. Yet for Spring Break, there was an addition in service that gave us a one-time chance to float to and from Juneau in one day.

I was ecstatic. I felt like Steve was taking me on a mini-cruise. It was a perfect get-away to cure my island fever.

For $116.00 including a discount, we were booked on the “Taku;” a large, “quick” moving ship that offered a fully stocked mess hall, theater, play area, video games, private cabins, writing room, gift shop and a comfortable observation room located at the front of the ship. We chose our seats from the rows of cushioned chairs all facing the expansive windows. The view was amazing.

The slow passing mountain ranges, changing clouds, and small islands thick with trees were so beautiful, but to look at them through thick windows seemed sacrilegious.
My cushy blue chair quickly turned into a hot seat. When my eyes caught the sun creating magical shadows on a snowy peak or the way the clouds wrapped around the base of an island or when I spotted a lone house on the edge of the rocks, I would turn to Steve, give him a kiss on the cheek, smile and say, “I’ll be right back.” Up and down, back and forth, in and out I went. I should say, “…we went.” Andrew, overcome with seven-year-old boy fidgets, finger-snaps and bottom wiggles, welcomed my frequent comings and goings. At one point he just had to run “it” out on the helicopter tarmac; pretending to be superman fighting the enemy wind.

My camera and I were itching to possess and memorize the beauty around us. I couldn’t push the shudder button fast enough. Unfortunately, my photo card only had 21 pictures left, a nightmare when on your first Alaskan “cruise.” (I had ordered a new photo card from Costco weeks ago but the joys of livin’ rural keeps me at the mercy of the postal service.) As I took in every angle from the bow, the stern and the upper deck, I had to choose my shots carefully. I found myself constantly reviewing my photos, editing and then getting ready for my next moment. And there were so many moments!



Steve, a bit under the weathder and being slightly worn to the novelty of an Alaskan ferry ride stayed inside most of the time. He brought a good book and spent his three hours receiving many kisses on the cheek, drinking Theraflu and reading about democracy. He did oblige me, early on in the journey, by going outside for our family “postcard” shot. Ta da!
We left at 12:45 pm and arrived at the Auke Bay Ferry Terminal in Juneau at 3:15 pm.
We took a 15 mile cab ride into Historic Old Town Juneau, an expense of $35 (no busses available!). The fickle spring weather gave us sun at the terminal and snow in city. We dashed from the cab to a local eatery called the Hanger. It gave a wonderful view of the water and the colorful sea planes docked in the harbor. After a delicious dinner, I was dying to visit the bookstore. Steve led the way. As we entered the tiny shelf-crammed store, we split like bees collecting sweet pollen from our favorite flowers; Steve to fiction, Andrew to children’s and I to biography and history. We enjoyed browsing and fingering the new spines and faces; letting our minds wander to the thrills and sorrows that lie lettered between the hard covers.

We quickly dashed into a tech shop to buy a photo card for my camera. Fully loaded, we were off once again. On the main drag, we went into a shop brimming with Alaskan treasures. From floor to ceiling, masks covered the walls, decorated wooden oars propped up against animal hides and walrus tusks sat on tusk-tip next to framed beetles with Latin names. There were cabinets filled with ivory and antler carvings of whales and eagles, buckets overflowing with pastel-colored stones, shelves lined with beaded moccasins and painted miniature totem poles, placed haphazardly around the store were hand painted ceremonial drums. The prices were exorbitant; a twelve inch totem pole was $400 and the drum that Steve is circumspectly holding in this picture carries a price tag of $749. Andrew did manage, though, to buy two magnetic balls for a buck.

We visited a small student art gallery and then moved on to Baronoff Hotel for tea and dessert. Steve and I relaxed in the lounge chairs and watched Andrew devour a piece of strawberry cheese cake. Can you believe they were out of “Baked Alaska?”

It was 7 pm and we had two hours before Taku headed back to Hoonah. Our touristing prospects were few. Ninety percent of the stores in Juneau are only open during summer season. The ten percent that stays open all year close at 5:30pm. We decided to head to the Juneau Library. It was lovely. This was the view from our sitting area, and Andrew had a large children’s section all to himself.



We knew the trip back home would be uneventful and planned to use the time to get some sleep. Andrew and I were in and out of rest, camping out on the floor in between one row of chairs in the earlier mentioned observation room. Steve returned to reading, this time by flashlight, and tried sleeping sitting up for the last hour of our “cruise.” We docked in Hoonah at 12:30 am. To our benefit, Major Loni, Andrew’s Boy Scout leader, was on board and graciously offered us a ride home. As I walked from the ship to her car, the crisp night air roused my sleepy senses; just enough to pause for a moment and thank the maker of the bright shining stars above for our day on board the Taku.

Tale of Two Wolves

An old Native American is teaching his grandson about life.

"A fight is going on inside me," he said to the boy."It is a terrible fight and it is between two wolves. One is evil - he is anger, envy, sorrow, regret, greed, arrogance, self-pity, guilt, resentment, inferiority, lies, false pride, superiority, and ego." He continued, "The other is good - he is joy, peace, love, hope, serenity, humility, kindness, benevolence, empathy, generosity, truth, compassion, and faith. The same fight is going on inside you - and inside every other person, too."

The grandson thought about it for a minute and then asked his grandfather, "Which wolf will win?"

The old Native simply replied, "The one I feed."

That's so Raven


If by numbers only, Ravens dominate both the sky and land in Hoonah. So numerous are these large black birds and so connected to this area that Alaskan Natives, from time immemorial, have named one of two of their "moieties" after them.

Scavengers by nature, they are often seen picking through trash bins and garbage cans of our little village. Special care has to be taken to secure the lids. Sometimes people use logs or axes to hold the tops down. Even still, I have watched ravens knock the wood or heavy tools to the ground and then use their large beaks to pry the lids open. Once they get to the contents, others join them and the result is a mess; trash is strewn all over the ground. We have also seen eight or nine of them surround a bald eagle, never challenging him, but forcing the great bird to protect his kill while he eats. From our picture window, we have noticed pairs of ravens chasing intruders for miles and engage in aerial fighting to protect their territory.

Ravens are very vocal creatures. According to a study done by Ornithologists Boreman and Heinrich in 1999, ravens have fifteen to thirty-three categories of vocalizations; alarm calls, comfort sounds, chase calls and calls designed for claiming territories. Their voices can be heard throughout the day, from one end of Hoonah to the other: screaming, bawking, kawing, coo-cooing and warbling. There are no city sounds to compete with brash character of the raven, and the stately eagles remain refined in their contribution to the air waves.

Ravens are so much a part of our daily lives that we decided to do a science experiment on their eating patterns.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
One morning before school Andrew put his uneaten buttered toast out in the drive way and in seconds a raven swooped down and pick up the food. Then next morning he placed and unbuttered, untoasted piece of bread outside and a raven didn’t come for about a half-an-hour. One afternoon, on the way to the park Andrew threw his apple in a snow covered field and immediately a raven flew down and carried it away.
This made Andrew wonder why they came quickly for buttered toast and apples and not for plain bread.

QUESTION
What item/food will the Ravens pick up/investigate most quickly; salami, buttered toast, plain bread, hard boiled egg in shell, apple or a plain red box?

HYPOTHESIS
Andrew predicted the Ravens will come most quickly for the salami, because they will smell it.

MATERIALS
One piece of round salami, one piece of buttered toast, once piece of plain bread, hard boiled egg in the shell, half eaten Fugi apple, and a red “Better Cheddar” cracker box*
Graph Paper, Timer , Pencil and Assistant (mom)

*We wanted to try a non-food item as a olfactory control element

PROCEDURES
For six days one piece of food/item will be placed in the driveway at different times* by the assistant. The researcher starts the timer the moment the food hits the ground and stops the timer when the Raven picks it up the food. The weather and temperature is recorded each day at the time of the experiment.

*We used different times as to not train the Ravens to come at the same time everyday.

RESULTS

Monday, 11:30 am
Light snow, 34 degrees
1 piece of Salami
Raven picked up salami in 42 seconds

Tuesday, 10:00 am
Overcast, cloudy, 34 degrees
1 piece of buttered toast
Raven picked up toast in 18 minutes

Wednesday, 12:30 pm
Light Snow, 36 degrees
1 piece of plain bread
Raven didn’t come
After 10 minutes added one piece of pepperoni and one piece of salami,
Raven didn’t come
Andrew went outside and ripped up the salami
Raven came in 5 minutes 56 seconds

Thursday, 3:00 pm
Heavy snow, 32 degrees
1 red “Better Cheddar” cracker box
Ravens didn’t come
Snow started to cover the box
After 16 minutes assistant placed a piece of salami on the box
Ravens didn’t come
We retrieved our box and untouched salami

Friday, 5:15 pm
Mainly Sunny, 37 degrees
1 hard boiled egg in shell
Before Andrew placed the egg he waved it around, tried to get Ravens attention, did a little dance in the driveway and then left it on some black rock so the birds could see it.
Ravens didn’t come
After 16 minutes Andrew brought the egg in and used red food coloring to dye it light red
Ravens didn’t come
We left egg there
An hour later a Raven swooped over, stopped on the snow five feet above the egg but didn’t pick it up
We left the egg there overnight
Around noon a Raven picked up the egg

Saturday, 6:00 pm
Unknown
1 half-eaten Fugi apple
Unknown

CONCLUSION
While common Ravens perceive their environment through vision, some chemical cues, tactile, and auditory stimuli, we could not find a pattern in how they choose their food. Perhaps the Raven had to see us place the food in the spot, or would spy it from the air come to investigate. A Raven picking up the food didn’t seem to be affected by weather, color of item, or smell of item.

They did come one time very quickly for the salami but the other days when the salami was added the results were not quick or consistent.

Andrew enjoyed seeing the birds close up and finding out the results.(Mom enjoyed seeing Andrew do a raven dance in the driveway.)

NEXT TIME
Next time Andrew wants to try the experiment for a two-week period with a greater amount and variety of food.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Happy Spring!

Spring Break has officially started!

To commemorate the the change of season, the sun came out and stayed out all day. Steve, Andrew and I spent most of our waking hours outside enjoying the warmth. Our first destination was the “beach.” We have yet to share this stretch of shore with anybody during one of our visits; a treat that could only occur when living in a sparsely populated area. It is at these times, alone with God's amazing beauty, that I feel most deeply, it is a blessing to be so isolated. It is peaceful, quiet and place where the world slows down. We enjoyed our time together with sea-smelling snowball fights, skipped rocks, sauntered alongside the water, collected smooth glass pieces and took in some of my favorite sights.

When I leisurely walk along the shoreline, I find myself gazing down at the multicolored rocks. Each stone wants to be held, to tell a story of its life under pressure. Some are smooth, opaque pink, others are black with deep white veins crisscrossing their bodies, others alternate textures and colors in half inch layers; all bound together by some fantastic occurrence. None are the same, yet all are akin to each other. They are arranged beautifully in an organized chaos. I wonder if there will be a time when they will be made whole again, reunited.

I am also in awe of the bounty of intact shells scattered along the beach. Growing up visiting the Oregon coast, I was lucky if I found one unbroken sand dollar or shell. But here there are no raucous waves to crush the porcelain to pieces. Here the pristine waters gently lap over the shells, giving them nothing more than a loving nudge toward the trees. Hundreds of these gutted shells sit atop the rocks, robbed of their insides by some hungry otter or seagull; some torn in half, some couples still clinging to each other by a ridged muscle. I can’t help but carry the bound duo for a few steps, stealing Andrew’s attention with a mock castanet performance.

The driftwood, too, has a playful intrigue that I find alluring. Their swirled misshapen faces; characters dressed up with moss accents, fish net and seaweed accessories. Here I can see a bird’s peering eye from the decomposing wood. There also are a multitude of barnacles on pier posts, rocks and rusting metal; somehow they seem precious. Tiny, little hermits, tucked snugly asleep until the high tide awakens them. The mountains; I could look at the same mountains everyday and never grow tired of staring. Today the clouds had lifted and all the grand snowy tops were fully visible.

In snow-covered Alaska, signs of Spring's arrival are hard to find. But when I looked and listened closely, I noticed some subtle clues of Mother Nature's plan to shed her winter clothes. The seaweed was in bloom. The once crispy dark green edges had transformed into plump, shiny green, air-filled blossoms; sticky to the touch. Back at home, as we spent the afternoon playing in our “super sledding trench” and relaxing in the sun, I could hear sweet new voices in the trees surrounding us. The delicate twitter of tiny sparrows chirped through the air; usually dominated by heavy calls of the ravens and eagles. With the warmth of the sun, the music of the birds and the whispering of the hemlock branches, it was a perfect setting for welcoming in the season. For us our first day of Spring was a day of repose, reflection and regeneration.

Party Time!

One evening, Andrew sat at the kitchen table and admired a shiny, new Alaska state coin. He had just received it in the mail from a friend of ours who lives in Oregon. He stopped for a moment and his math wheels started turning. He looked at Steve…looked at the coin…looked at Steve again and then said with astonishment, “Steve has been alive longer than Alaska has been a state!”

Yup! Alaska joined the state of the union in 1959. Our sweet Steve was already ten years old!

March 15, 2009 Steve turned 60, and from dawn until dusk we celebrated. We began the day by serving Steve breakfast in bed, giving him our homemade cards and gift of a bonified Hoonah tourist T-shirt. With breakfast over, he lounged his way downstairs to be greeted by colorful birthday posters all over the walls designed by Andrew. I added some age appropriate quotes…

“I’m at the age that my back goes out more than I do.” Phyllis Dillar


“Inside every older person is a younger person wondering what the hell happened!”
Cora Harvey Armstrong

“Getting old ain’t for sissies.” – Betty Davis

“Time may be a great healer but it’s a lousy beautician” – Unknown

“Old age isn’t so bad when you consider the alternative” – Maurice Chevalier

“Life is a moderately good play with a badly written third act” – Truman Capote

“The secret of staying young is to live honestly, eat slowly and lie about your age.” – Lucille Ball

Steve loves to cook, so we spent the rest of the day preparing the main dish and dessert for our twenty guests that were coming for dinner. He reveled in perfecting gourmet lasagna with a homemade sauce that he started simmering the day before; Italian sausage, stewed tomatoes, olives, mushrooms, spices. He made layer upon layer of delicious cheeeesy, saussy delight. He even made me a small veggie lasagna. Andrew and I were covering the dessert end of things. We really wanted to make him a yummy birthday cake from scratch. It would be our first attempt at such a venture, so we proceeded with caution. It was German Chocolate cake recipe I found on epicurious.com. It had a four fork rating. I read all the reviews (three times), took notes and had Steve’s assurance, as he rattled off standard cake ingredients, that it would impossible to mess up. “It’s just flour, butter and sugar….”

As my mother would say, “famous last words.” I was doubling the recipe, using metal round cake tins (instead of 9x13 glass) and had a mixing bowl so full of batter that my hand mixer couldn’t touch the bottom of the bowl. The store didn’t sell “German Sweet Bakers Chocolate, so Andrew and I chunked together our own concoction of Hersey’s milk chocolate, Semi-sweet Baker’s chocolate and a Steve’s favorite Swiss Dark chocolate candy bar. It melted beautifully into a rich sauce that was added as the base flavor of the batter. The store didn’t sell full-fledged butter milk, so with a sigh I conceded to low fat. Not that such a slight subtraction of fat would matter when the recipe called for eight sticks of butter! I cooked the frosting too fast and it never quite got hard enough, even after I placed it in the freezer. In the end the cake was sticking so badly to the pans we had to cut it out of the metal tins, the middles had fallen and the coconut - pecan frosting was oozing and dripping all over the side of the cake…not a pretty site BUT….the good thing was it was delicious…really, really yummy. Steve is still eating birthday cake (when I doubled the recipe I ended up yielding 3 full two layer cakes) and he says it gets better with each day. (much like he does actually!)

The party was so much fun…everyone brought food….veggie platters, salads, freshly baked bread and wine. A couple brought their guitar and sang a couple funny songs and Andrew performed some piano pieces. The stand up comedian came out in him when he announced two of his numbers. He prefaced his Halloween song by saying, “Turning 60 can be scary, so I thought a Halloween song would be good.” And then he said, “Some folks may say Steve is over the hill, but we think he is just ‘Coming around the mountain!’”

Here are some pictures of our friends...














Dinner was delightful. Everyone raved about the lasagna. Conversation was great, two cakes were devoured, and it seemed that everyone had a good time, especially our birthday boy. Here’s to another great year!




Hoonah Zoo

Before Tuesday I had never seen an Alaskan bear. Today I can say I have seen one…well kinda-sorta.

During a nice visit with Tina, the K-2 teacher on maternity leave, her husband Chris, and holding her sweet 28 day-old baby boy, Evan Ezekiel, we started talking photography. Chris has seen me carrying my camera everywhere I go and like me, he is always seeking great moments to capture on “film.” He has a few advantages, a really cool camera, a vehicle, three years learning the terrain, and patterns of the animals and an adventurous spirit. I shared that I would join him anytime he goes out bear watching or to look for whales. Later that afternoon he took me up on it. He invited us all to a local bear hang out…the dump!

Steve had a meeting, so Andrew and I threw on our snow gear and jumped in Chris’ Jeep. Off we went up a snowy, tree-lined road about five miles out of town. It was a serene, beautiful ride that ironically serves no other destination points other than the dump. When we arrived, the entire area was covered by five feet of untouched snow, making it the most beautiful landfill I’ve ever seen. The view was breathtaking, with miles and miles of mountain peaks, trees and open sky…and snuggled into the side of the mountain was our bear.

Chicagof Island has the largest brown Grizzly bear population in the world, approximately 3 per square mile. With spring unofficially here, the bears are awake and hungry. Chris has seen hundreds of bears during his stay in Hoonah and knows the dump is a sure-bet opportunity to catch a glimpse of our furry friends. “Dump Bears” wait for the people to come and unload their rubbish into the incinerator. The bears have torn an entry through the chain-link fencing to get to the food. Chris mocked throwing some food in the incinerator to entice the bear to come a little closer. Our bear didn’t move and chose to stay lodged in his snow bed.

It is similar to seeing a bear at a zoo, although as Andrew mentioned, “…with no fences to hold him back.” While we waited to see if another bear would show up, we enjoyed the view and heard stories of Chris’s many bear encounters. With no more bear activity we decide to go home. Andrew and I were excited to see our first Alaska bear but are eagerly waiting for Chris’s next call to go bear watching.


The little black dot to the right of Andrew's head is the bear :)